I guess its not technically “the end”, I still have to attach the screen bottom of #8 hardware cloth, but that will be quick. It will just staple in.
Other than the hardware cloth screen, its all done though. I did promise to explain the details, so here they are.
The clean-out doors were painted at the same time as the hive bodies. I attached them with hinges, with small pilot holes pre-drilled for the screws. I used two hinges for each door (there is a door at each end of the hive). I probably could have used smaller hinges, but these will definitely be heavy enough. I also attached a hook and eye to latch the door closed.
The next thing I needed to do was attach a railing that the top-bars will sit on. If you remembe, I made this while cutting the ridge pole of the roof. They are small wedges with the sides at 20 degrees off vertical (with the top flat). These will attach to the inside of the hive sides and have a horizontal surface for the top-bars to sit on. I measured and if these are attached 1″ down from the top, there will be slightly more than 19″ between them. Since my top-bars are 19″, this will give me a little extra room, but not too much. I measured the 1″ down and made a guide line. I applied wood glue to the rail and put it in place. I held it in place with clamps while I attached it with 1/2″ staples. I think I have heard Norm Abram say in positions like this that the wood glue is the structural support with the nails (staples here) just there to hold it in place while the glue dries. He definitely know more about woodworking than me, but I figured I would err on the side of caution and added a good number of staples. 🙂
The last thing was to add the top-bars. I ended up fitting 17 brood bars (1 1/4″) and 13 honey bars (1 1/2″). I can change that up if needed, but the total is 30 bars. Being Easter, I also had a very cute daughter in her new Easter dress to give the final product a sense of scale. 🙂